How to read a car buyer's order (purchase agreement) line by line

A buyer's order, purchase agreement or dealer worksheet lists the car, the price, every fee, your trade-in and the financing. What each section means, the numbers that must agree, and what to check before you sign.

By Eyal Malka · November 7, 2026

The buyer's order (also called a purchase agreement, bill of sale, retail order or deal worksheet) is the dealer's summary of the deal: which car, at what price, with which fees, taxes and add-ons, what you are trading in, and how the rest is being paid. If you finance through the dealer, a separate retail installment contract usually follows, with the loan terms in a standard disclosure box.

Every dealer's form looks different, but they all contain the same sections. Here is how to read one.

1. The vehicle

Year, make, model, trim, VIN, stock number and, for a used car, the odometer reading. Check them against the car itself and against any listing or window sticker. A quote for "the EX" when you are looking at "the LX" makes every number below it about a different car.

2. The price section

• Selling price (or cash price, vehicle price). On a new car, compare it with the window sticker; on a used car, with the advertised price.
• Discounts: dealer discount, price adjustment.
• Rebates and incentives: manufacturer cash, loyalty or conquest cash. Sometimes these appear further down, after the total. See rebate vs dealer discount.
• Market adjustment, if any, as its own line.

3. Taxes and fees

Sales tax, title, registration and plates, the documentation fee and any other dealer fees. Each should be its own line with its own amount. If one line says "fees" with a single number, ask for the breakdown. See dealer fees explained.

4. Add-ons and protection products

Accessories, protection packages, service contracts, GAP and similar. Each one listed separately, with a price. Make sure you asked for each one. See dealer add-ons explained.

5. The total

Often labelled "total cash price", "total price", "total" or "subtotal". This is usually the out-the-door price: everything above added up. Check it yourself; here is how.

6. Your trade-in

• Trade-in allowance: what the dealer is giving you for your old car.
• Payoff (lien payoff, balance owed): what you still owe on it, which the dealer pays off and adds to the deal.
• The difference is your equity. If the payoff is larger than the allowance, the difference is negative equity being added to this purchase. See negative equity explained.

7. What you are paying up front

Cash down payment and any deposit you already paid. Check the deposit is there: a deposit paid days ago is easy to leave off.

8. The balance

Total, minus trade-in allowance, plus payoff, minus down payment and deposit. On a cash deal this is the balance due; on a financed deal it should match the amount financed.

9. The financing (if you finance)

If you finance, the loan disclosures (in the US, the Truth in Lending box on the installment contract) show:

• Amount financed
• APR
• Finance charge: the cost of the credit in dollars
• Total of payments: everything you will pay on the loan
• Payment schedule: the number of payments, the amount, and any final balloon payment

The out-the-door price, the amount financed and the total of payments are three different numbers. Amount financed vs out-the-door price explains how they relate.

The numbers that must agree

Before you sign, check these line up:

1. The lines add up to the printed total.
2. Total − trade-in + payoff − down payment − deposit = the amount financed (or balance due).
3. The payment, number of payments and APR are consistent with the amount financed.
4. The VIN on the order is the VIN on the car.
5. Nothing appears on the paperwork that was not in the quote you agreed to.

Let us read it for you

Photograph the buyer's order (you can black out your name, address and account numbers first) and upload it to Explain My Dealer Quote. It reads each line using the dealer's wording, you confirm the figures, and it checks every one of the relationships above, showing the calculation for anything that does not match. It also explains each fee and add-on and drafts a reply to the dealer.

Frequently asked questions

Is a buyer's order a binding contract?

It depends on the document and where you are. Some buyer's orders are signed purchase agreements; others are worksheets for discussion. Read what you are being asked to sign, and ask the dealer whether the document is binding.

What is the difference between a buyer's order and a retail installment contract?

The buyer's order describes the car, the price, the fees and how the total is being paid. A retail installment contract is the financing agreement, with the loan disclosures: amount financed, APR, finance charge, total of payments and payment schedule.

Why are there two different totals on my buyer's order?

Usually one is the out-the-door price and the other is the balance after your trade-in, payoff, down payment and deposit. If rebates are shown after the total, the numbers can look different again. Rebuild each total from its lines to see which is which.

What should I check before signing a buyer's order?

That the vehicle details match, every fee and add-on is one you agreed to, the lines add up to the total, your deposit and trade-in are shown correctly, and the financing numbers agree with each other. See what to check before signing a car contract.

Can I take the buyer's order home before signing?

You can always ask. Many dealers will give you a copy or let you photograph it.